Domaine Hubert Lamy

| | 85 July 2008 Allen Meadows
Domaine Hubert et Olivier Lamy (St. Aubin)

2006 ** Bourgogne "Les Chataigners" white 86
2006 ** Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Macherelles" 1er white 92
2006 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru white 94
2006 Puligny-Montrachet "Les Tremblots" white 88
2006 ** St. Aubin "Clos de la Chatenière" 1er white 90
2006 ** St. Aubin "Clos du Meix" 1er white 89
2006 St. Aubin "Derrière Chez Edouard" 1er white 88
2006 ** St. Aubin "Derrière Chez Edouard - Cuvée Haute Densité" 1er white 93
2006 ** St. Aubin "Les Frionnes" 1er white 90
2006 St. Aubin "La Princée" white 87
2006 ** St. Aubin "Les Murgers des Dents de Chien" 1er white 91
2006 ** St. Aubin "En Remilly" 1er white 91

Olivier Lamy calls 2006 a "vintage that saw maturities arrive right at the end and very suddenly. We began picking with the whites on September 17th and essentially had no rot at all. I was happy about this because not only did it eliminate a lot of extra work but yields were reasonable at between 35 and 60 hl/ha. Sugars were very good, better than I anticipated actually at between 12.8 and 13.5% and thus there was no need for chaptalization. I did not do any lees settling with the whites as I felt that the lees were clean. The malos were extended, which kept the wines protected as they aged. I quite like the vintage as the wines are pure and balanced." Fans of the domaine will notice the presence of a new wine, which is actually an experiment. Lamy is fascinated by the now ancient viticultural practices that were employed in the 19th C up until the time phylloxera arrive in Burgundy. Before that time, the vines were planted willy nilly at density levels up to 30,000 vines per ha versus the roughly 10 to 12,000 typically seen today. As the two tasting notes will reveal, the planting density made quite a
difference. More broadly, the Lamy '06s are flat out terrific and are among the best whites that I have ever seen from him

2006 Bourgogne "Les Chataigners": A hint of reduction only mildly detracts from the otherwise fresh and airy nose of mostly dried flowers and citrus nuances that can also be found on the detailed and punchy light weight flavors that offer fine intensity on the citrus-infused finish. Fine quality at this level and recommended. 86/now+

2006 St. Aubin "La Princée": This is also very fresh and airy and has no evident reduction to the lemon peel and acacia blossom nose that merges into intense, detailed and precise barely middle weight flavors that culminate in a tangy and racy finish that offers just a bit more overall depth. 87/2009+

2006 Puligny-Montrachet "Les Tremblots": A nicely complex and layered nose features notes of green apple, pear and subtle dried rose petal nuances that are also picked up by the tangy, spicy and intense flavors that possess good length and punch on the linear and persistent finish where a touch of wood toast also surfaces. 88/2010+

2006 Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Macherelles": This also evidences a trace of reduction though here it is extremely subtle and only those especially sensitive to it will notice and in any event, it doesn't really detract from the white flower and citrus aromas that are ultra fresh and airy while complementing pure, detailed, minerally and impressively precise medium plus weight flavors that are not only delicious but almost painfully intense on the broad and long finish. Terrific. 92/2011+

2006 St. Aubin "Clos du Meix": A subtle touch of pain grillé sets off ripe and exceptionally fresh floral, lemon, lime and wet stone aromas where the mineral character also characterizes the delicious and solidly concentrated flavors that possess both lovely mid-palate density and a palate staining finish. This is worth a look as the balance is really lovely. 89/2011+

2006 St. Aubin "Derrière Chez Edouard": Here the nose is also very fresh and enveloping with its airy floral and citrus aromas that lead to intense, dry and pure flavors that possess driving energy and excellent punch if perhaps less depth than one might like to see. Still, this is certainly attractive with plenty of personality. 88/2011+

2006 St. Aubin "Les Frionnes": A gentle touch of natural spice infuses the lemon peel and acacia blossom nose and then continues onto the round, fresh and intense barely medium weight flavors that possess good mid-palate fat that buffers the ripe but firm core of acidity on the snappy and almost chewy finish. This is a wine of excellent balance and real drive, all wrapped in a linear and palate staining finish. Worth your consideration. 90/2011+

2006 St. Aubin "En Remilly": Here the nose plays right on the edge of perceptible reduction with a high-toned, airy, pure and seductive citrus blossom-infused nose that also reveals hints of anise and clove while introducing citrusy middle weight and chiseled flavors seemingly made from liquid stone and I really like the finishing drive on the linear finale. 91/2011+
2006 St. Aubin "Les Murgers des Dents de Chien": Again, there is a very subtle trace of reduction though 15 to 20 minutes of air will probably be sufficient to dissipate it. A touch of wood toast highlights the citrus, mineral and honeysuckle aromas that precede the racy, intense and vibrant middle weight flavors that also possess plenty of personality and culminate in an explosive finish. This offers excellent quality for what it is and is definitely worth a look. 91/2011+

2006 St. Aubin "Clos de la Chatenière": (worked entirely by hand as the vineyard has a 40% slope, which ensures that it receives plenty of sun). Subtle reduction mildly detracts from the otherwise airy and fresh white flower and anise-suffused nose where the spice component is picked up by the rich, full and naturally sweet flavors that possess good volume for a St. Aubin 1er while delivering an impressively vibrant finish, indeed this finishes with real pop. Recommended. 90/2011+

2006 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet: This is the ripest wine in the range with its honeysuckle and acacia blossom nose that is also redolent of yellow orchard fruit aromas and subtle wood toast influence that gives way to powerful, rich and dense fullbodied  flavors that possess obvious muscle and simply huge length on the deep and palate staining finish. This is ripe enough that there is a moderately exotic quality to the slightly toasty finish but the sheer depth is truly dazzling. 94/2012+

2006 St. Aubin "Derrière Chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité": (from a vine density of 28,000 vines/ha). The primary distinction between this and the regular cuveé is quite simply one of intensity and while I'm sure that it will calm down in bottle, this was literally painfully intense and easily the most intense wine in the entire range, in fact I would go so far to say that as fine as many of the preceding wines are, when it comes to raw intensity and punch it's simply no contest. There is also dry extract to burn, which coats the palate and buffers, at least to a degree, the intensity. Despite all of the fireworks, this is essentially a wine of finesse as there is an underlying delicacy though that aspect is admittedly hard to see given the impressive punch and length. Definitely worth buying if you can find it. 93/2012+

Domaine LAMY HUBERT - 20 rue des Lavières 21190 ST AUBIN - Phone 0380213255

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